I vaguely noticed us leave port in the morning. It was still dark, so rather than getting out of bed to say goodbye to Puerto Natales, I rolled over drifted back into a deep sleep. When I finally did arise, a wonder awaited me. The placid water was a mirror, perfectly reflecting the verdant hills and their snow-lined caps. So perfect was the reflection, that it didn’t seem real, it was as if I were drifting through a hallucination. As we made our way through the weaving sound, I stood captivated by the beauty surrounding me. I stood, trying to spot where the mirror ended and reality began as the sun stretched up from behind the mountains. It is not often one is privileged enough to bare witness to such a beautiful spectacle, let alone about to stand in the middle of it.
Most of the outside of the boat was very windy, so apart from fleeting visits, the people stayed inside. Being made of a more stubborn disposition, I found a couple of sheltered benches at the back of the boat form where I could enjoy our fjord. Windows never quite cut it for me, I like to be outside to feel like I’m a part of nature rather than just watching it go by. The feeling as I sat there watching waterfalls, and picking secluded beaches to live on, was one of absolute euphoria: pure and simple.
The boat was comprised of three levels: sleeping on the bottom, dining hall on the next floor, and a cafe on the top floor complete with not one, but two outside viewing decks and an giant chess board which would be invaded by a yoga session every day. These viewing decks were far too popular for me, so instead I stayed at my private bench hidden at the back of the boat on the bottom floor. From this spot I could enjoy being in nature in solitude, and protected from the elements.
I was sitting with my dad at our private bench when a perfect rainbow formed over the hills and waterfalls to our left. Rainbows for me are tinged with acquiescence. I say this because I find them a heartbreaking lesson in acceptance. This is for two reason: firstly they’re so beautiful I want to touch them, or at least get closer to them – but of course you can’t; and secondly I want their beauty to be forever, but of course there’s nothing you can do to stop this fleeting moment of magic from passing by. All I can do is admire it from where I am, while it’s there, and try to be content with the fact I’ve seen it.
Next morning we were still peacefully gliding through the fjords, but edging ever closer to the Gulf of Penas. The previous day at lunch, they had run out of veggie options, but I remained patient and smiling whilst they rustled something up. I guess they took a liking to me after this, because at every subsequent meal the head chef greated me with a jolly “My friend!” He was also sure to give me an extra serving. It’s amazing how far simply being nice can get you.
Shortly before lunch we were given a tour of the Captain’s bridge. A small group of us trooped around the side of the boat and into the cramped quarter at the front where we were given a talk on what all the controls do. Much to my disappointment, there wasn’t a giant steering wheel like on a pirate ship, but rather a computer which would figure out how much power to give to each engine to take the boat on the mapped course. More interesting than this, though, were two phones: one marked dolphins, and the other marked whales. I never found out for sure what they do, but I have now put ‘have a phone call with a dolphin’ on my bucket list.
In the afternoon, we left the shelter of the fjords and spent the rest of the day rocking through the Gulf of Penas. People often talk about how you can’t count the stars, but even harder than that is trying to count the waves on the open ocean. I have an over-active mind which can very easily fall into panic attacks, and it turns out trying to count waves is not a good idea for it. They were so numerous and fast moving that my brain went into overdrive just trying to keep up. Rather than enter into mild psychosis, I deemed it better to instead focus on the sun shimmering on the waves. I allowed this gentle hypnosis to lull me into a trancelike state, forgetting all about the ever shifting turbulence on which these shimmers skated.
Awaking in the morning, we were back in the fjords. We peacefully drifted on by as the sun warmed our bones. The wind had completely vanished, so all the guests were up on deck enjoying the weather. My dad and I were happy to sit on the lower decks, away from the crowds, watching the world go by as we soaked up the sun in meditative serenity. As the day went on, our channel through the fjords slowly widened once more. The islands we were sailing past broke up into ever smaller ones. Countless sea lions splashed past, making a game for us to try and spot them.
The sea lions grew bored of us and left, so I turned my attentions to reading. A short while later, I looked up from my book to see a whale breaching. Later still, I was standing at the front of the boat, idly staring out to sea, thinking about nothing at all, when a small pod of dolphins happened to leap into my field of vision. I checked with the guy next to me to be sure I wasn’t seeing things. The only other person there was a lady. I drew her attention to them, and together the three of us stood admiring their acrobatics. As we did, I debated whether to risk losing them by going to get my dad. Eventually, I did so, knowing that as soon as I told him, the whole boat would come rushing out. Sure enough, the second the words left my mouth, their was a surge to the front. Of course, as soon as we got there, they were gone.
That evening was our last on the boat; in the morning we’d reach Puerto Montt and disembark. Perhaps mother nature knew this, as she put on one hell of a show for us. Sunset shot a fire into the sky. Reds and oranges filled the heavens as we sailed into the night. A quiet awe could be felt all over the boat, so strong it was almost tangible as everyone stared out across the great blue savouring every last drop of this halcyon holiday. The modern world has taught us to crave activities and entertainment from our vacations, but the mental wellness that comes from having nothing but nature cannot be overstated.
To see more from my travels around the world, follow me on Facebook and Instagram.
womackswonder 